A 2023 Visitor’s Guide to Beirut

The allure of Beirut – an overview

Flanked by the Lebanon Mountains to the east and bordering the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Beirut is a small city. But let that not fool you; it is intensely complex and full of contrasts.

Indeed, there are few cities in the world as old as Beirut. Inhabited for more than 5,000 years, the Lebanese capital is a dream come true for lovers of history. Much like all ancient cities, Beirut is home to a number of museums that serve as reminders of an incredibly rich and colourful past, including the National Museum of Beirut and the AUB Archaeological Museum. Yet, its remarkable history is not merely confined to institutions like these, as immaculately preserved Roman baths and other magnificent millennia-old sites can be admired by simply taking a walk around Downtown.

Beirut also attracts art enthusiasts thanks to its vibrant art scene. While the Sursock, an architectural wonder and the city’s largest art museum, boasts an impressive collection of 1,500 works by some of Lebanon’s most prolific artists, a plethora of galleries and art spaces can also be found throughout the city, particularly in the artsy neighbourhoods of Gemmayze and Mar Mikhael.

Bursting with flavours, from authentic bakeries and street food spots to traditional Lebanese restaurants with mesmerising views of the sea, Beirut presents an enticing prospect for foodies. What’s more, this culinary capital also prides itself on offering excellent foreign cuisine, including French, Italian, Asian and Armenian, in addition to several others.

But perhaps Beirut’s greatest claim to fame is its inimitable nightlife. Voted among the best party destinations in the world, the city’s insatiable appetite for a good time is evident year round. Those who visit during the summer months can enjoy the ambience of rooftop bars and clubs, which bring together fun-loving crowds for unforgettable Beirut nights.

Neighbourhoods

Admittedly, the Lebanese capital is not the most pedestrian friendly in the world—poorly maintained pavements and an absence of designated crossings are commonplace. However, it is a city that yearns to be explored on foot, so don’t be deterred.

Achrafieh

Some people would go as far as to say that Achrafieh is the prettiest and most characterful neighbourhood of Beirut. It is located on a hilly section towards the east, rising above Gemmayze and extending to Badaro.

What makes Achrafieh particularly charming is its striking architecture. Despite the widespread damage that resulted from the Lebanese civil war and the impact of the catastrophic Beirut port explosion, a palpable fusion of French, Ottoman and Lebanese design elements can still be seen in a significant number of buildings, especially those in and around Chehade Street, Rue du Liban and Rue Monnot, a quaint cobblestone street named after the French Jesuit Father Ambroise Monnot, who founded the Saint Joseph University there in 1875.

The grand palaces and mansions that epitomise Rue Sursock are a sight to behold. Despite its central location, this affluent, tree-lined street in Achrafieh is surprisingly peaceful, so you can admire the marvellous architecture and impeccably manicured gardens on an afternoon stroll. Look out for the Ottoman-inspired villa Linda Sursock, an eye-catching yellow mansion on the corner of Rue Sursock, and the majestic Sursock Palace, a grand residence facing the renowned Sursock Museum.

Gemmayze

The name Gemmayze derives from the Arabic word for sycamore, as the trees grew abundantly in the neighbourhood before the era of mass urbanisation. These days, Gemmayze is known for its trendy cafes, restaurants, bars, boutiques and art spaces, many of which are nestled inside stunning heritage buildings. The slower daytime pace of the neighbourhood stands in stark contrast to a livelier atmosphere after sunset.

It’s hard to ignore the French influences that exist in this part of Beirut. Rue Gouraud is a nod to the renowned First World War army general, while the street that runs parallel pays homage to Louis Pasteur.

Apart from the maze of narrow streets, staircases are characteristic of Gemmayze. Many were constructed over a century ago to connect neighbourhoods, especially those at the top of the hill. Today, they are still used by pedestrians, the most famous being the Saint Nicolas stairs, also known as ‘Escalier de L’Art’, which is located halfway down Rue Gouraud and provides direct access to Sursock. The staircase hosts events, including an annual film festival and art exhibitions, and at 125 steps, it is reputedly the longest of its kind in the Middle East.

Mar Mikhael

As the bohemian relative of Gemmayze, Mar Mikhael is a little rough around the edges but warm and welcoming at its core. Armenia Street, the main road, is long and lined with a mishmash of concept stores, cafes, restaurants, bars and art galleries. It extends from Rue Gouraud in Gemmayze to the Armenian quarter of Bourj Hammoud, an intriguing neighbourhood located on the other side of the Beirut River.

Wander around Mar Mikhael’s hidden streets and up its staircases and you’ll find compelling street art, as well as remnants of a bygone era. Built in 1894, Mar Mikhael’s iconic train station connected Beirut to Haifa and Damascus. However, the 408-kilometre line suffered acute damage during the Lebanese civil war, and the station ceased its operations in 1976. Abandoned for decades, the site has been reclaimed by vegetation, and rusty carriages and eerie railway tracks are all that remain of this once busy transport hub.

Mar Mikhael’s beauty lies in its authentic, laid-back feel, so take the time to get to know the area well and don’t be afraid to venture into its hidden corners.

Badaro

It isn’t hard to imagine that the upscale neighbourhood of Badaro once formed part of a pine forest. Situated within the capital’s greenest district, it is home to Horsh Beirut, the largest public park in the city, as well as the Beirut Hippodrome, a century-old horseracing track and open green space. In the built-up parts of Badaro, trees stand guard in front of elegant Art Deco buildings. There is even a majestic cedar behind the Roman columns facing the National Museum of Beirut and a couple of ficus trees outside the museum, which has on display approximately 1,300 objects from its collection of nearly 100,000 artefacts.

Indeed, there’s more than meets the eye to Badaro. With the opening of funky bars and restaurants on the main street in recent years, this predominantly residential and commercial centre has upped its game to become a social hub, most notably after work hours.

Hamra

Besides the shopping experience that Hamra is well known for, it is also a cosmopolitan neighbourhood with strong artistic and cultural roots.

Above the shops, cafes and restaurants of Hamra Street are original signs bearing the names of theatres and cinemas that were popular during Beirut’s heyday, like Strand. There are also countless residential and office buildings that show off their 1960s spirit with pride. Some of these have been transformed into works of art, with enormous murals bursting with colour. Yazan Halwani’s depiction of the illustrious Lebanese singer Sabah surrounded by Arabic calligraphy—the Lebanese national anthem—is perhaps the most moving of all.

Art can also be admired in the galleries located across Hamra, such as Agial, Leticia and Zaaman. The majority of these spaces focus on contemporary works from Lebanon and the region, providing a valuable platform for emerging local talents.

Yet, the American University of Beirut is undoubtedly Hamra’s most treasured landmark. Built in 1866, it has not only served as an exceptional seat of learning for over 150 years, it is also one of the most beautiful campuses in the world, complete with its own private beach.

Downtown

The Lebanese civil war had a colossal impact on Downtown. Following the end of the conflict in 1990, a huge reconstruction project of Beirut’s Central District began. Ironically, it was during this time that city’s layered past was unearthed. The discovery of a Phoenician city under a war-torn Beirut was bitter sweet. In the mid-1990s, the American University of Beirut’s Archaeological Museum team painstakingly exhumed the first city wall, dating back to 3,000 B.C.

By the late 2000s, Downtown had re-established itself as a commercial and touristic hub. Together with the ancient sites and modern office buildings, it was regarded as an upmarket shopping and lifestyle district, with a large number of luxury hotels, brands and restaurants. However, the months-long anti-government protests of 2019 and the cataclysmic explosion at the port of Beirut in 2020 completely changed the face of the neighbourhood. Large sections were destroyed, hotels and restaurants were boarded up and financial activity came to virtual standstill. However, Downtown is slowly beginning to come back to life. Tourists are returning, restaurants have reopened and the boutiques are resuming business.

Among Downtown’s most visited sites are: Martyr’s Square statue, which was sculpted by Marino Mazacurati in 1960 to embody liberty, struggle and freedom; the Mohammed Al Amin Mosque, with its blue domed roof; the Maronite Cathedral of Saint George; Place de L’Etoile, with its iconic clock tower, the Saint George Greek Orthodox Cathedral and Saint Elias Greek Catholic Cathedral; the Grand Serail (government palace); Beirut Souks, which features a Quranic school from the 16^th century Mamluk period; the Al Omari Mosque, which was transformed from the Cathedral of Saint John in the 12th century to the city’s Grand Mosque by the 13^th century; and the Samir Kassir statue and square, a contemplative space dedicated to the professor and journalist and inscribed with his powerful words.

On the southeastern periphery of Downtown is the picture-perfect Saifi village, a cluster of pastel buildings separated by narrow cobbled lanes that feature high-end boutiques, art galleries, wellness studios, cafes and restaurants. The Armenian Catholic Cathedral of Saint Gregory and Saint Elia is located the far end of Saifi. It was built in 1953, replacing a much smaller chapel.

Close to the Armenian Catholic Church lies the Egg, a futuristic piece of architecture that was built in 1965 to serve as a multi-storey complex, comprising a shopping centre, cinema and offices. Designed by Joseph-Philippe Karam, a prominent architect of the time, the Beirut City Complex, as it was then known, blended in perfectly with the modernist landscape of 1960s Beirut. These days, it is covered in bullet holes and graffiti.

Ultimately, Downtown is a celebration of Beirut’s glory and decay.

Ain El Mreisseh

The Avenue de Paris, or the Corniche as it is known locally, extends from the famous Saint George Yacht Club to Manara (the lighthouse), Pigeons’ Rock and beyond. Lined with palm trees, this seaside promenade is one of the main reasons Beirut is likened to the Cote d’Azur.

Besides the joggers and roller bladers, the Corniche attracts fishermen and swimmers thanks to the large rocks providing access to the sea.

As one would expect, a number of beach clubs, seafood restaurants and shisha cafes are dotted along the coastline, making it popular destination for local and tourists alike.

Recommendations

Food and drink

Beit Kanz. The exquisite Tabbal Building on Sursock Street is home to Beit Kanz, a cultural hub that aims to preserve traditional crafts and promote the rich flavours of Lebanon’s terroir. Visitors can enjoy a delicious meal or refreshing drink at the café-restaurant and explore the artisanal boutique.  All proceeds from Beit Kanz go to Beit El Baraka, an NGO that assists vulnerable Lebanese families. — Achrafieh

Centrale. An architectural masterpiece in its own right, with a floor-to-ceiling wine cellar and tunnel bar suspended in the air, Centrale is among Beirut’s most outstanding restaurants. The menu comprises expertly crafted international dishes, while the bar serves an array of signature cocktails. — Achrafieh

Tawlet Souk el Tayeb. Built on a philosophy of authentic Lebanese home cooking, Tawlet is an open kitchen where, each day, a different producer or cook prepares traditional dishes from their region. Every Saturday, a farmers’ market is held next to the restaurant. — Mar Mikhael

Feluka (Sporting Club). Located at the legendary Sporting Club of Beirut, Feluka is an excellent Lebanese seafood restaurant. While feasting on fresh and flavoursome mezze and fish, guests can enjoy the views of the beach club and the Mediterranean Sea. — Manara

Liza. Set inside a gorgeous 19^th century palace in the heart of the Achrafieh, Liza fuses contemporary design with Beirut’s golden era. The menu comprises Lebanese favourites with a modern touch. A splendid outdoor courtyard features a central fountain. — Achrafieh

Mayrig. This Armenian restaurant delivers on consistency, authenticity and service. Indulge in sou berek, mante, fishne kebab, itch and other mouth-watering specialties. Guests can sit inside the elegant Ottoman-era mansion or outdoors in the pretty courtyard. — Gemmayze

Kalei. The perfect place for an afternoon coffee or to read a book, Kalei is nestled in a quiet corner of Mar Mikhael. There is a lovely urban garden in front of the coffee shop, as well as rooftop space. The menu features specialty coffee and light bites. — Mar Mikhael

Shopping

Nada Debs. Nada Debs’ eponymous studio celebrates Middle Eastern craft and design, from tableware to furniture. — Gemmayze

Plan Bey. If you’re looking for Beirut-inspired posters, art prints, postcards and books, head to Plan Bey. — Mar Mikhael